How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. For now, this is just a dump of all the remaining pictures I have of the rebuild process (unfortunately a few got corrupted on my failing hard drive). In time I will write the article step-by-step and arrange the photos in a logical order. For now, the photos may be of some help as a reference. Click on any image to view larger.…
Archive:
Disassembly
Cut up the door skins.
In preparation for the blast cleaning, I cut out a large section of the door skin, to expose the hidden side of the interior door wall. I’m trying to maximize what needs cleaning gets blasted, and minimize what doesn’t (as in what needs to replaced for sure).
Before / after of the right hand door:
…and the other side:
Not much left of the car now…
…
Some more cutting.
Decided to cut away the strip of the boot pan I had previously left on top of the box section. I would not be able to weld to it, like I had originally planned, it is of too bad a condition. I had concerns about it providing structure to the box section, but now think it is strong enough and is supported at either end to under the body and…
Something’s missing…
Cut out the trunk pan.
Before:
The cut out trunk pan:
Note the the upper corners. I had to cut slightly differently than what I planned, as underneath there is part of another panel that overlaps right in the corner, so I had to avoid cutting this.
To maintain structural integrity, a strip of the trunk pan which is spot-welded on top of the box section was not…
Removed right hand wheelhouse and filler panel.
Cut away some more of the quarter panel and proceeded to drill out the spots welds holding the inner and outer wheelhouses to the body shell (to the rear seat pan, trunk pan, rear seat back rest, filler panel, inner side panel, trunk hinge supports and sail pillar support). An area down near the rocker panel is causing problems as to how to remove the wheelhouse spot welds from there,…
Drilling out the trunk support straps.
Drilled out all the spot welds between the trunk pan and the support straps in preparation for removing a large section of the pan.
I started by dot-punching and drilling a 2mm pilot hole (with a Cobalt drill bit) from underneath, then from above drilled the hole to 10mm (with another Cobalt drill bit). I didn’t worry about putting a hole in the strap, as I’ll be welding them…
Where to cut?…
Been working out where to cut, how much to keep, what to replace et cetera.
I plan on cutting the whole pan out along the blue lines (apart from to the right side, I’ll cut along the white line – this is the frame rail). Then cut out the filler panels on the red line (but not over the white line). Then the new boot pan will take the…
Removed filler panel.
Removed filler panel through drilling out spot welds to the top of the trunk pan, the bottom of the remaining quarter and also, unnecessarily (causing me more problems by doing so) to the tail panel.
Before:
After:…
Removed wheelhouse.
Removed left side wheelhouse by drilling out all the spot welds, and a little bit of cutting.
Before:
Rust damage:
After:…
Removing crank shaft.
To remove the crank shaft, the crank shaft clamps/bearing caps must be removed.
1 – Bearing cap bolts all loosened. 2 – Gently knock the cap free. 3 – The 5 bearing caps.
Now the crank shaft can simply be lifted up and out.
Now with the engine stripped… you have a very big, very heavy paperweight……