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With the timing chain cover off, it is just a case of unbolting the camshaft gear…
… And pulling the gear and chain off.…
Archive:
2008
Removing pistons.
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First is to flip the engine upside down and remove the oil pump and pan.
Showing the crankshaft and piston connecting rod ends…
It may be needed to rotate the crankshaft until a piston connecting rod end in accessible and also in line with the piston.
1 – The piston rod bolts undone. 2 – The bearing cap gently knocked free. 3 – The bearing cap removed.…
Removing crank shaft pulley and timing chain cover.
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To remove the crankshaft pulley and timing chain cover…
To remove the pulley is simple. It’s held on by 6 bolts to the harmonic balancer. It may be necessary to slide something (screwdriver etc) through an access hole to stop the pulley from rotating.
Now to remove the harmonic balancer. A screwdriver through a hole will stop it from rotating. A large bar on the end of the…
Removing cylinder heads from block.
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First remove the valve covers.
Then the valley cover.
Now remove the rocker arm assemblies, these are held on by a nut. Now the push rod can be pulled out. Be sure to organise where eveything came from, so if need be it can go back in the same place. I used cardboard, polystyrene and bags and numbered everything.
Now the valve lifters can be removed by…
Mounting the engine.
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The engine. I see a clown face…
1 – The mounting bracket. 2 – A box of 50 Grade 8 3.5″ 3/8 UNC bolts. I only want 4. 3 – 100 Grade 8 3/8 washers.I had to ship the bolts and washers in from the USA as I could not find any Grade 8 imperial hardware anywhere in the UK. And the only place that shipped internationally only had packs of…
Removing intake and exhaust manifolds.
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The engine in it’s very own, new, home:
1 – the intake manifold. 2 – all the manifold bolts removed, I didn’t follow a sequence for undoing them just dotted about loosening each one gradually. 3 – hard to see but there was a bolt that is screwed into the manifold with a nut holding it to the timing chain cover. This would not play nice, so I had to chop…
Removing drive shaft U-joint.
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The driveshaft universal joint to be removed. This doesn’t rotate smoothly – it’s very clunky – so a new one will be installed after the shaft is painted.
First step is to remove the retaining C-clips. Any tool with a point will do for this.
Now the u-joint will be able to move (forcibly, not freely) for the next step. Put a socket larger than the u-joint bearing…
Removing traction arm bushings.
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The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…
Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.
I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would…
Removing torque converter and flywheel.
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Getting ready to mount the engine for a rebuild. So, with it still on the crane had to remove the torque convertor and flywheel (AKA flex plate).
It is held on by 3 bolts, and access is limited. Found one place (the low left as you look at the flywheel) that a socket would fit and also hit against the side of the engine to stop the torque converter…
A bit more backtracking.
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Somehow I missed this earlier. Had to remove the rest of the ball joint from the lower control arm. Thankfully it was easy to do.
This is the thing to remove:
Just hit it with a hammer around the edges…
…until it starts to break free…
…then hit it some more until it’s completely out.
Some cleaning to do then it’s ready for a new…
…Yet more rust removal. Shot blasting this time.
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First of all was to separate the steering centre-link from the idler arm, pitman shaft, and old tie-rods.
This is as simple as removing a pin, undoing a nut, knocking with a hammer and repeating. Easier said than done with something this rusty.
And afterwards:
Had the sway bar and, now, the centre link to grind the rust away.
With most of the rust gone on most of…